Min Pin Rescues…Need Your Help !!!
62 doggies in need of a stable loving enviorment …
Can You Help US ???
Donations $$$ needed to help pay for :
* Boarding
* Vaccinations
* Surgery ( spays and neuters )
* Major Dental ( prevention of disease )
* De-worming
* Flea and tick prevention
* Micro-chipping ( for identification if lost or found )
* Food
2. Does the breeder insist that the puppies be at least seven weeks before being placed?
3. Did the breeder seem happy that you are asking questions?
4. Did the breeder ask you lots of questions? Questions about your
lifestyle, family, experience with dogs and other pets, why you wanted
a dog? Did you feel a bit like you were applying for a million dollar
mortage?
5. Is the breeder a member of a breed club?
6. Are the sire and dam each at least two years old?
7. Were both sire and dam tested for genetic health before the breeding?
8. Does the breeder have information on the health testing of most of the immediate relatives of the sire and dam?
9. Did the breeder volunteer information on the health testing, and volunteer proof?
10. Does the breeder offer a guarantee against genetic health problems at least two years long?
11. Did the breeder ask you whether you planned on breeding?
12. Does the breeder make you feel comfortable calling for advise?
13. Did the breeder go over some of the problems some people have with the breed?
14. Is the dam a family pet (meaning does she live in the house as part
of the family)? (For that matter does the breeder know what a “dam”
is?)
15. Have the puppies been introduced to children? To other animals?
You want ALL these to be “no”
1. Did the breeder state or imply that puppies would be arriving from off premises? (e.g. shipped in soon)
2. Will the breed agree to sell a puppy less than 7 weeks old?
3. Was the breeder reluctant to answer questions?
4. Did the breeder seem to be defensive in answering questions?
5. Does the breeder charge different prices for dogs with or without papers?
6. Does the breeder claim the dogs are purebred but unpapered?
7. Did the breeder claim that his or her lines were entirely free of health problems?
8. Does the health guarantee require that you return the puppy?
9. Do you feel pressured into buying a puppy? Do you feel like the
breeder is trying to “sell” the puppy (as in persuading you to buy)?
2) Each litter is carefully considered before being created.
3) Any animal used for breeding is thoroughly checked for health problems before being bred.
4) Any animal used for breeding is proven in some way to have the
abilities and other characteristics essential to the breed.
5) Keeps at least one puppy in each litter for his/her breeding program (otherwise, what was the purpose of the breeding)
6) Thoroughly evaluates potential puppy buyers to be sure each puppy is put into a good home
7) Requires that puppies not to be used for breeding be neutered.
Encourages all puppy owners to test their puppies for various health
probelms and report them back to the breeder so that the breeder has a
broad> as well as a deep knowledge of what is in his/her lines.
9) Takes back any dog he/she ever bred if that dog looses its home
10)Is honest about the various setbacks their breeding program may have suffered.
11)Is deeply knoweldgeable about the breed’s, history, original purpose, weaknesses and strengths.
12)Is willing to refuse to sell a puppy to a family that is unsuited to the breed.
13)Provides advice, feedback, and other help to people who have purchased a puppy from him/her.
14)Is willing to recommend to a family that adopting an adult dog of
the breed might be a better option for them and helps them find a
rescue group.
Here are my definitions:
Puppy mill.
-Medium to large operation whose only purpose is to sell dogs at a
profit. -Will sell to anyone. Will sell to
wholesalers/brokers/bunchers.
-Do not do health checks on parents (OFA, CERF, etc.)
-Do not care about temperament, genetics, conformation, or health.
-Operates as cheaply as possible to maximize profits. This often means
vaccinations and veterinary care are either very poor or absent.
-I personally suspect any facility that has more than one or two different breeds.
-Facilities can be clean, but more often are not.
-Dogs show little to no socialization.
-Pedigrees are not available.
-Health Guarantees, in the rare instance they are offered, are
usually fraudulent (i.e., guarantee for 3 months for all defects, when
hip dysplasia cannot be entirely ruled out until the dog is 24 months
old).
Backyard Breeder.
-Thinks “purebred” = quality and health.
-Breeds for reasons such as, “I thought she would be more fulfilled if
she had puppies.” “I wanted the kids to see the miracle of birth.”
“She’s purebred, and I thought I could make some money.”
-Backyard breeders usually hope to make some money, but they are not purely profit minded. They are just ignorant.
-Again, there are no titles, no pedigree offered, no knowledge or
thought of genetics or testing for genetic defects in the sire or dam.
-Some backyard breeders can be educated.
Suspect a puppy mill or backyard breeder when:
-The breeder asks you no questions.
-The breeder is offended by questions you ask.
-The breeder cannot offer proof of genetic testing of sire/dam.
-The breeder does not want you to see their kennel.
-The breeder shows you one or two puppies only, does not allow you to see either dam or sire.
-The sire/dam have no titles (Ch., obedience, tracking, agility, etc.)
-You can smell the kennels as you get out of your car.
-There are many breeds available to choose from.
Reputable breeders.
-Will ask you a lot of questions.
-Will expect you to ask a lot of questions.
-Will be honest with you about both the best and worst parts of their breed.
-Will try to determine if their breed is right for you, and may steer
you in another direction if they think their breed is *not* right for
you.
-Will provide you with pedigrees, genetic test results.
-Will show you the dam and (if possible) the sire.
-Are not motivated by profit.
-Are motivated by the love of their breed.
-Breed to improve the gene pool of their breed.
-Are active in showing/obedience/hunting/agility, etc.
-Will want to keep tabs on you and your dog for the dog’s life.
#2, being Hannah volunteers at the humane socity i figure she’d have some knolege of the hoorable petover population problem
beign that i DO volunteer at our HS and have taken and placed fosters .
i know this intemetly what happens BECAUSE of back yard breeder and puppymills,’
ANY time you give money to a Back Yard breeder or puppy mill you encorage them to keep breeding.
there are over , 290 yorkies listed on petfinder that need homes .
that is JUST one website there are countless more in rescue.
a breeder insiting on breeding an untryed puppy, for cash , is NOT in any means responsible .
http://woodhavenlabs.com/breeding.html
and you have no idea how horrable a thing it really is till you have to
hold an animal that is beign put to sleep due to lack of space or
watching it die in the gas chamber.
why are these things bad , you may ask?
lets review the current overpopulation problem mostly caused by Back yard breeders and the puppymill industry. stop puppymills
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General Character And Temperament
The Yorkshire Terrier is a small dog with a big attitude. This is a dog
that will one minute happily snuggle on grandma’s knee, delicately
eating digestives and the next minute leap through the air and tear
after the neighbour’s Rottweiler, promising to show it who is boss.
Yorkies are terriers after all, and will protect their territory
valiantly. The Yorkie is an affectionate dog but not naturally good with children. If a Yorkie is brought up with children or exposed to them as a puppy, it should be fine. However, children need to understand that the Yorkie has small bones that break much easier than most toys.
Supervision is highly recommended.
Yorkshire Terrier
Coat Length
Medium/Long
Grooming Requirement
Every Day
Trimming
Occassional,
Requires Professional Groomer
True
Grooming
As a pet, the coat needs to be
brushed daily using a brush and comb to ensure all tangles are removed.
The topknot especially should be taken down, brushed out and redone.
Leaving an elastic band in for days will destroy the coat. Hair under and around the tail should be checked for faeces.
The teeth should also be brushed daily, as the small mouth leads to overcrowding and a tendency to teeth decay.
Once mastered, the daily grooming should take no longer than 15 minutes.
Bathing should not be done more than once a month.
Colour
The typical colouring of the Yorkshire Terrier is blue and gold. The
blue is a steel blue, often lightening to grey with age. The gold
should be a rich tan.
Is small, fine-boned, elegant, easy to carry, and doesn’t take up much space
Has a lovely flowing coat that doesn’t shed (one of the best breeds for allergy sufferers)
Is lively and inquisitive, and moves swiftly with light-footed grace
Doesn’t need a lot of exercise
Makes a keen watchdog — won’t fail to announce strangers
Is peaceful with other pets
A Yorkshire Terrier may be right for you.
If you don’t want to deal with…
The fragility of toy breeds (see below)
“Separation anxiety” (destructiveness and barking) when left alone too much
Suspiciousness, shrillness,
and highstrung temperaments in some lines, or when babied and spoiled,
or when not socialized enough
Excitable chasing instincts
Frequent brushing and combing
Notorious housebreaking difficulties
Barking
Fragility. Too many people
acquire a toy breed puppy without understanding how incredibly fragile
a toy breed is. You can seriously injure or kill a Yorkshire Terrier by
stepping on him or by sitting on him when he’s curled under a blanket
or pillow, where he frequently likes to sleep. And Yorkshire Terriers
can seriously injure or kill THEMSELVES by leaping from your arms or
off the back of your sofa. A larger dog can grab a Yorkshire Terrier
and break his neck with one quick shake. Owning a toy breed means
constant supervision and surveillance of what’s going on around your
tiny dog. Yorkshire Terriers must always be kept on-leash — they are
just too easy to injure when not under your complete control. And many
Yorkies, with their terrier heritage, have strong chasing instincts.
They will take off after anything that runs.
Yorkshire Terriers are NOT suited to
children, no matter how well-meaning the child. Children cannot help
being clumsy, and that a child meant well is little solace to a
Yorkshire Terrier who has been accidentally stepped on, sat on, rolled
on, squeezed, or dropped onto the patio. Most Yorkshire Terriers feel
overwhelmed by the loud voices and quick movements that children can’t
help making — and stress and fearfulness (even defensive biting) may
be the result.
Separation anxiety.
More than most other breeds, Yorkshire Terriers need a great deal of
companionship and do not like being left alone for more than a few
hours. They tend to express their unhappiness through destructive
chewing and barking. If you work all day, this is not the breed for you.
Providing enough socialization.
Standoffish by nature, Yorkshire Terriers need extensive exposure to
people and to unusual sights and sounds. Otherwise their natural
caution could become suspiciousness or shyness, which are difficult to
live with and can even lead to snapping and biting.
Grooming. Without
frequent brushing and combing, Yorkshire Terriers become a matted mess.
If you can’t commit to the brushing, you have to commit to frequent
trimming to keep the coat short, neat, and healthy.
Housebreaking problems. As a behavioral consultant, I would put the Yorkshire Terriers on my Top Five
List of “Hard to Housebreak.” Consistent crate training is mandatory.
Sometimes a doggy door is necessary. And some owners never do get their
Yorkshire Terriers fully housebroken.
Barking. Yorkshire
Terriers are often too quick to sound the alarm at every new sight and
sound. You have to be equally quick to stop them.
To teach your Yorkie to listen to you, “Respect Training” is mandatory. My Yorkshire Terrier Training Page discusses the program you need.
Avoiding the hype.
Beware of breeders selling “teacup” Yorkies. This is a made-up
marketing term for Yorkshire Terriers weighing only 2 or 3 pounds. Stay
away from any breeder who uses this term.
I do NOT recommend a Yorkshire Terrier
under 4 pounds. These individuals are great risks in the health
department. Their bones are extremely fragile. There is not enough room
in their mouth for healthy teeth. Their internal organs are often weak
and can fail suddenly. They tend to have great difficulty regulating
their blood sugar and can go into hypoglycemic shocks and comas.
To make matters worse, some breeders deliberately
breed these high-risk Yorkshire Terriers and charge outrageous prices.
There are breeders on the Internet right now charging $1000, $1500,
$2000 for “teacup Yorkshire Terriers.” Don’t be taken by these
irresponsible people. Stick with Yorkies who will mature at 4 pounds
and up. And don’t pay such ridiculous prices for any Yorkshire Terrier.
If you’re considering an adult Yorkshire Terriers…
There are plenty of adult Yorkies who have
already proven themselves NOT to have negative characteristics. If you
find such an adult, don’t let “typical breed negatives” worry you.
When you acquire a puppy, you’re acquiring
potential — what he one day will be. So “typical breed
characteristics” are very important. But when you acquire an adult,
you’re acquiring what he already IS.
Just to get this out in the open
I’m a Independent Constitutionalist (classical Jeffersonian Liberal),
and a Pagan in the Celtic tradition; not Wiccan.
more info at bottom:
I am an I/O and renders administrator and a 2-d to 3-d conversion company in Los Angeles , Artist, and Linux System Administrator . I am originally from NY. I Graduated SCAD with a BFA in Visual Effects 2006. I then went to VFS in Vancouver to study Houdini. I volunteer my time with animal rescue. I have three rescued miniature schnauzers , Zoe , Fritz , Austen ,a Cat Stormy and a wonderful husband.
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Encourages all puppy owners to test their puppies for various health